1982年、千葉公平、30歳

　千葉公平。関西から現れた最初の本格派だった。無類の旅好き。それが彼のクラシックなサーフィ ングを支えてきた。OSAを2度連続して制覇してももそれに固執することは、決してなかった。そ して今、自分自身の可能性をサーフボードシェイピングの中に見い出そうとしている。まったく新 しいステージに立ち、歩き始めた彼は、それでも旅を忘れない。それがクラシックなトータルサー フィンライフの支えになることを充分に心得ているから。

1982, Kohei Chiba, 30 years old

　Chiba Kohei. First surfer from Osaka, recognized and respected by Tokyo area pros. Loves surf trips, which influenced his classic style surfing. Won OSA circuit twice in a row, but he moved on. Now, he is looking his future in shaping. Still surfing, but spending more time in the shaping room, but doesn’t forget to travel as of yet.
He knows that is the key for his CLASSIC surfing life.

“それで俺は、
ゆくゆくは自分のハンドメイドの板を
作ってあげられるようにと、
シェイプを始めたんだ”

大野　まず今、一番興味のあるものはなに？
千葉　シェイプに今はすごく興味があるね。
大野　シェイプはいつ頃から始めようと思ったの？
千葉　シェイプはね、昔、５年くらい前に始めようと思ったんだけど、そのころはやっぱり一生懸命に波乗りをやってたし、そんなチャンスもなかったね。
大野　それはどこにいる頃？
千葉　茅ヶ崎にいる頃。
大野　その前は全然考えてなかったの？
千葉　そういう訳じゃないんだけど、昔からハワイとかいろんな所で、いろんな人からシェイプしてもらってたから、大変な職業だなあと思ってたけど、シェイプにはあこがれてたね。
大野　昔からシェイプというのは器用な人がやるっていうのがあったけど、どう？　器用だった？
千葉　あまり器用じゃなかったね。
大野　シェイパーにインタビューするときは必ず聞くんだけど、必ず器用じゃないって言うんだよね。それでも、けっこういい板を削ってるんだよね。
千葉　そうだね。器用とか不器用とかはあんまり関係ないみたい。
大野　うん。それでそのいろんな人の板に乗ってたって、例えばどんな人。
千葉　有名な人だったらランディ・ラリックとかディック・ブリューワーとかスティーブ・イン。
大野　現在でも自分のシェイプじゃない違う人の板も削ってるんでしょ。
千葉　うん。ゲーリー・リンデンとかピーター・マッケイブ。それは自分のシェイプにどういうボードかなと試そうと思ったり、自分のシェイプにも使えるんじゃないかなあと、いい点を探し出してるという感じ。
大野　最初にシェイプを教わり始めたのはいつごろから？
千葉　去年の５月頃かな。
大野　だれが教えてくれたの？
千葉　特にだれも教えてくれないね、独学。
大野　うん。でも波乗りはもう何年やってるの？
千葉　波乗りは11年くらいかな。
大野　それだけやってれば、サーフボードの削り方なんかいろんな所で見たりするものね。
千葉　そう。そういうのはすごく見てきたね。さっき言った人なんかをね。
大野　それで、自分で削り始めて、納得のいく板ができるようになるにはずい分時間がかかった？
千葉　今はまだ納得のできる板とかいうんやなくて、プレーナーを自由に扱えるように練習してる。それができたらいろいろと想像して削れるようになると思うから、そういうふうに努力してるね。だから最初から商品としてできるシェイパーじゃないことは確かだね。何でもいいから出したいという気持ちでやったんじゃない。

“ So, I wanted to provide hand shaped board for Kansai surfers,
then need to start somewhere, right ?
That is why I started to shape.“

Ono: So, what are you interested in right now ?
Kohei: Really into shaping now.
Ono: When did you start thinking about it ?
Kohei: Hmm, may be about 5 years ago ? But I was just surfing so much, couldn't make myself a time to start that at all.
Ono: Where were you living?
Kohei: Chigasaki, may be ?
Ono: Nothing about wanted to shape before that ?
Kohei : Not like that…I have seen great shapers shape a few for me, and amazed by how hard the job was, tough job to do, but sorta looked up to those guys, so wanted to be a shaper in a hind sight.
Ono: I think you need a guy naturally good with hand to be a shaper. Are you one of those ?
Kohei: I don’t think so…
Ono: Interesting…All the shapers I asked, they don’t think they are good with hand….But they are all making good boards.
Kohei : I know, you don’t need to be good with hand, but eventually become skillful with things, that will do the job, I think.
Ono: Who shaped you in the past ??
Kohei : Umm…Famous/Popular shapers? Then Randy Rarick, Dick Brewer or Steve Ying…
Ono: I heard that you are shadowing for few overseas shapers for Japanese customers ?
Kohei: For Gary Linden & Peter McCabe, yup. I wanted to ride their shape too but I learn from those great active shapers and helping their demand in Japan.
Ono: When did you started shaping ?
Kohei : End of Last May, I think.
Ono: Who is teaching you?
Kohei: Nobody…I guess no one is willing to teach, so I just trying to learn on my own.
Ono: How long have you been surfing ?
Kohei : Surfing ? I belive about 11 years now.
Ono: So you have enough opportunity to see and learn how the boards are made, right?
Kohei: That is right. I actually studied a lot in the shaping bay who I mentioned earlier.
Ono: So, how long have it been to feel good to ride your own board?
Kohei: Not quite yet, to tell you the truth. I am focusing on to master the use of planer. Once I am good at it, I think I can shape the board that I imagine works well. Not an easy task, but I am trying hard.
Honestly, I am not even trying to sell to gain profit at the moment. I need to believe my shape is good enough to do so, I don't feel like I am ready as of yet.

大野　シェイプを始めてから一番大変だった事ってなに？
千葉　サーフィンをする時間が少なくなったね。あと、少し神経質になったかな。やっぱりつまる時があるよ。１週間ぐらい全然手をつけないとかね。
大野　けっこう、あせっちゃって、やりたくなくなるってこともある？
千葉　あるねえ。
大野　でも自分の性格からしてあの密室で集中して物事を創り出すってことはあってるとおもう？
千葉　向いてると思うね。
大野　まだ僕、公平がシェイプしてるところを見たことがないんだよね。
千葉　今度見せるよ(笑)。
大野　僕はね、ずっと前から公平を見てて、シェイプをするようなタイプじゃないと思ってたの。善家さんだとか青田だとか、シェイプで生きてる人もいるけど、波乗りだけで行きてくタイプの人も出てるじゃない。例えば僕なんかもシェイプはできないし、公平もどちらかといえばシェイプをするタイプじゃないと思ってたんだけど。
千葉　そうだね、タイプじゃないかもしれないね。でも住んでるところがどちらかといえば大阪。で、結局サーフィンの業界の雑誌とかサイクルは東京に向かってるよね。その点では関西は多少損をするよね。明るいところへ出れないやつもいるし。ハンディはあると思うね。それで俺はゆくゆくは自分のハンドメイドの板を作ってあげられるようにとね。それでシェイプを始めたんだ。
大野　それでどんな板を創りたいの？
千葉　人よりシェイプしたのが短いからあまり言えないけど、スピードの出る板をつくろうとしているね。そしてていねいに時間をかけてね。
大野　公平は大阪を中心としてハワイに行ったりしてたね。こっち（湘南）にはどのくらいいたの？
千葉　３年ぐらい。
大野　それから大阪へ帰って、OSAの１回、２回、５回と勝ったじゃない。それから若いサーファーが出てきたんだけど、なにか期待はずれだったわけ。で、１年くらい姿をみせなかったじゃない。その間にシェイプをやり始めて他の？
千葉　うん。シェイプしたり、もちろんハワイへも毎年行ってた。それにその間にも、まわりの関西のサーファーの事はよく見てたけどね。
大野　その間に、大きいブランクの間にね、若いサーファーが出てきて、あせりみたいなものは感じなかった？
千葉　そういうほどあせりは感じなかったけどね。
大野　若いサーファーが出てきて、地図が変わるなかで１年間コンテストに出てこなかったのは、自分でもあせりを感じてるんじゃないかなって思ってたわけ。でもそれが、あの長嶋じゃないけど、充電されて戻ってきたわけでしょ。それで今年はあと５戦ぐらいで終るんだけど、今年は何回出たの？
千葉　３回か４回。丸井には出てる。
大野　伊勢（丸井第３戦）はどうだったの？
千葉　伊勢は９着！
大野　コンテストはこれからも出るつもりでいるの？
千葉　うん。出たいなあと思うコンテストには出るつもりでいるよ。そのためにスポンサーもあるし、出られるだけでたいね。
大野　でプロサーファーとしてシェイパーとしてそれなりの生活はできてる？
千葉　そうだね。結局コンテストに出たら30本シェイプするところが15本になったり、そういうこともあるね。
大野　いくつくらいまでコンテストに出るつもり？
千葉　あと２、３年かな。
大野　この間のラハイナの大会で見てると、こうビシッとくるのは、公平とか福田くらいなんだよね。そういう関西の重心という感じで見まわしてみて、育っている若い選手っている？
千葉　そうだね。ただコンテストには弱いやつは多いね、関西は。コンテスト以外で木梨とかはうまくなってるね。あと福田に関してはいろんな波をまだ経験してないって感じだね。
大野　旅が少ない？
千葉　そう。いろんな波に乗らないとね。だからこの間のコンテストみたいに乗ってもスピンアウトしておわってしまうとか。いろんな波を経験しないとね。あとスポンサーにしても選手をうまくバックアップしてあげたら、そのメーカーなり会社は残っていくんじゃないかな。
大野　ビジネスの面で現在、大阪っていうのはどうなの？
千葉　大阪のシェイパーなりサーファーを見てて、こっち（湘南）の人と比べて、みんな外へ出てないね。みんな、いろんな人のいいところをみて吸収して大きくなってるのに。それにくらべて関西はそういう面が少ないね。他のシェイパーとコンタクトをとってだんだんうまくなっていくというね。だからなかなかいいボードが出てこないんじゃないかな。今、関西の場合もまだスタートしたばっかりという気がするね。だから徐々にいい板もできてきたら、いいサーファーも出てくるだろうし。

Ono: Within your limited time shaping, what is the hardest thing ?
Kohei: Less time for surfing! Also, I am getting bit too particular about surfboard, may be? Just thinking too much about things and not being able to continue….I can’t go back to the shape room for a week, sometime.
Ono: Want to give up shaping?
Kohei: Yup….Regret started it, even…
Ono: But you seem to be good atcreating things in the closed up room, sort of a stoic type ?
Kohei: You’ve got it right. I think I am a type to be a shaper.
Ono: I haven’t seen you shaping as of yet!
Kohei: May be next time you are in town? Haha.
Ono: I have known you for a while now, but I didn’t feel like you are going to shape. Someone like Zenke-san or Aota, they are good surfer who can shape a good board as well, but I am not like that. I thought you are like me.
Kohei: I don’t know, may be you are right ? But I am from Osaka(West Japan), and Surfing center is in Tokyo area. ( East Japan) Even all the magazines and medias are located in East, so I think Osaka surfers have disadvantage. Good surfers are coming up but they do not have too much opportunity to get a spotlight. So, I though if I can shape a good hand shaped boards for them ,then they can prove themselves in surfing. That was the motivation to start, I think.
Ono: So, what type of boards you want to shape?
Kohei: I don’t want this to sound cocky considering my short experience, but I would like to shape fast board. If I need to slow down, I would do that to shape it.
Ono: You are from Osaka and been to Hawaii for a while. But how long have you been here in Shonan ?
Ono: About 3 years.
Ono : Then you went back to your home, and killed the Osaka Circuit, huh? You won 1st, 2nd and 5th contest in this past season, then disappeared from the contest scene?
You didn’t like to head butt with the younger generation, or you were busy shaping ?
Kohei: Sort of….I was busy shaping for sure, but also been to Hawaii to surf. But I was not intended to hide or anything. I was paying attention to the scene, also.
Ono: So you know younger kids start to surf well, huh? I was thinking you may feel uneasy, like being chased by them ….Then you came back and surfed few OSA contest…How many contest did you surf this year??
Kohei : Only 3 or 4 , I believe. Although, I have surfed all the Marui circuit.
Ono: Is that so? How did you do at #3rd one at Ise Beach ?
Kohei: I ended at 9th, but not too bad, right?
Ono: Are you keep competing for a while ?
Kohei: May be….Especially the ones that motivate me. I still got sponsorship, so I should try as much as I can.
Ono: So, you are making enough as a “ professional surfer/shaper” ?
Kohei: I guess so…But shaping productivity varies especially when I surf in the contest. Say, I need to shape 30 boards, but I was only able to do so 15, or something like that.
Ono: Ever think about your age limit as a competitor?
Kohei: May be another 2~3 years? ( He is 30 years old at the time )
Ono: I was at OSA contest the other day , Lahaina Cup. I felt you and Fukuda, are the only ones who surfed sharp enough….Do you feel anybody else stepping up from Osaka area??
Kohei: I think there are few, but they are not experienced enough in the contest. In free surfing, guys like Kinashi are surfing well, I think. Fukuda is pretty good too, but he need to surf different type of waves to get stronger in the contest.
Ono: Need more trips?
Kohei: Exactly. Surf different spots & different waves…See, last contest, the wave was bit more powerful than his beach (Ise), so he failed to bottom turn many times..
Need experience. Also, in general, sponsor should lead the surfers to that direction, then they will grow so does the sponsor’s business. They will survive long time if the sponsor have that vision.
Ono: About the business, how is it in western Japan ??
Kohei: Hmmm….Shapers or surfers , they seemed to prefer stay where they are. Here in Shonan , they are more open minded and going places more. They listen, see and experience new things and getting better…Western Japan need to be like that, especially shapers need to learn from other shapers. They will be better that way.
So the quality of the boards will improve much better than right now. I know they are aware and trying to make a difference, recently though. Once the good board is in the market, surfers will surf better.

“ラインがきれいでスムーズで、
チューブに入るサーフィンがいいな”

“I like classic surfing, sort of orthodox style.
Clean & smooth lines with occasional barrel riding, something like that. ”

Ono: So, you have been trained as a Shao Lin Fighter ever since you are young?
Kohei: Yes, since about 15. I switch to Nikken ( Japanese Kenpo) at 18 and kept practicing until I was 22 or so.
Ono: How did it start?
Kohei: I was playing team sports like Basket Ball when I was younger, but I changed that feeling I should practice the sports that I don’t play as a part of the team.
Also, I wanted to keep my body fit.
Ono: So you have nothing to do with Ocean back then ?
Kohei: Yes. Especially in collage team, I was too busy to do anything else. I didn’t have much chance to go to the beach. However, in that environment, I was trained my mind and spirit to focus on things and did very well, I guess.
Ono: So, that help you wining the heat, especially under pressured situation?
Kohei: Yes, since the each heat is so short, it is not easy to perform at your best.
It is not as easy as it looks, as you know very well.
Ono: You think so ? Still not easy after all those wins?
Kohei: Defenitely.
Ono: How come you became so good at surfing?
Kohei: Am I that good ? I don’t know…haha…It’s hard to say, but I learned to surf in Hawaii early in the game, that may have been contributed.
Ono: And also your strong focus, may be from the years of training in Nikken??
When did you started to go to Hawaii ?
Kohei: When I was 21. The winter Mr.Ogawa from Drop Out was a stand out among us Japanese , I remember. I saw Kakai at Queen’s, and he was surfing well there, just like he is now.
Ono: Then you moved to Shonan for about 3years. What did you learn here?
Kohei: Umm…Everyone was ripping on knee high waves! I was very surprised.
Ono: You never surf that small waves in Hawaii, huh?
Kohei : Never. If it is that small, no one surfs in Hawaii, so…
Ono: Where did you mainly surfed in Hawaii ?
Kohei: Alamoana in Summer and North Shore during the winter. I didn’t surf large one though…especially Waimea. I never paddled out there. Then come back to Japan and learn how to surf smaller waves. It was not too easy…
Ono: On Single Fin, right? Did you try Twin Fin that time?
Kohei: Yes, but didn’t like it until recently.
Ono: Why so late ?? You don’t like Twin Fin?
Kohei: I was not avoiding it, but I guess I prefer Single Fin surfing.
Ono: What made you try twin fin?
Kohei: Because everyone is on it at the contest….I thought I’ve got to try. Also, I needed to learn how to shape Twin Fins.
Ono: Oh, that’s why. How do you like it ?
Kohei: The one I am riding now is OK, as I can turn like Single Fin on front side..
I don’t like the feel on back hand though.
Ono: Where is your local break right now?
Kohei: Currently, it is Ise. Occasionally Shikoku.
Ono: Where did you caught first wave?
Kohei: Ikumi Beach, Shikoku.
Ono: Why you went to Hawaii ?
Kohei: First year, older boys was going, so I went along with them. Of course, I didn’t even attempt to bring surfboards. I really liked it, so I came back once and went again. I was planning on staying about a month, but ended up spending a whole year.
Ono: Just surfing everyday?
Kohei: Yes, got a part time job and the rest was all surfing.
Ono: When you lived in Shonan, were you thinking about settling down there?
Kohei: I guess. But I preferred Osaka because I have more friends there, and I believe Osaka have more humanity.
Ono : Tell me your typical day these days.
Kohei: Well, since I need to shape, I go to the shape room first. If there are some onshore wind, I would go windsurf. Come back and shape a few, then make few calls. If there is a wave, I may go to Ise for 1 hour session before the sunsets.
Ono: Is that the life you wanted? Satisfied?
Kohei: I am not satisfied as of yet.
Ono: Need to surf more? Shape more?
Kohei: Want to surf more, for sure.
Ono: I may have told you this before, but I think Western Japan surfers have more overseas’ information than Eastern Surfers these days. Don’t you agree?
Kohei : I am not sure about that…
Ono: Have you tried Tri Fins??
Kohei: I tried once. Bigger day and I liked it. I brought one to Hawaii last winter too.
Ono: What is your ideal surfing?
Kohei: I like classic surfing, sort of orthodox style. Clean & smooth lines with occasional barrel riding, something like that. Oh, I believe it is important to ride the bigger wave well, if you want to be noticed as a good surfer. You can’t ride small wave only, if you want to be polished.
Ono: I agree. What size you are comfortable with, in Hawaiian size?
Kohei: 4 to 6 feet ?
Ono: I guess you look pretty comfortable in larger days here in Japan, is that because you learned to surf in Hawaii ??
Kohei: I believe so. It helps for me to go to Hawaii every winter ever since. I go there for recharge myself. I get energized when I am surfing in Hawaii. I feel I am blessed to be able to go to Hawaii every winter.

“サーフィンというのは進行形。
サーフィンができなくなるまでサーフィンしたやつが
本物のサーファーだと思う”

大野　世界中を見回してみて好きなサーファーっている？
千葉　そうやな、ジェリー（ロペス）は好き。今でもいい友達だし。今年の冬の話だけど、パイプラインに入ってて波待ちしてたら「コウヘイ、コウヘイ」って呼ぶんだ。だれだろうなって思ったらジェリーだった。久しぶりだなって感じで。そのあとで家に行ってサーフボード見せてもらったり。あとはピーター・マッケイブも好き。
大野　2人ともグーフィーだね。
千葉　デェイン（ケアロハ）もやさしいね。
大野　今、自分で削っている板っていうのはどんな板なの？
千葉　ツインフィン。自分では５フィートぐらいまでハンドリングできると思う。ただしレギュラーの波だけどね。
大野　ツインフィンのバックサイドってどんなふうにいやなの？
千葉　下から上に上がった時の切り返しが好きじゃないね。特に波がでかいとまわりすぎるみたい。
大野　ほれすぎてるところを上げちゃうとあんまりよくないんだよね。
千葉　ツインフィンは先輩だからな。ガンガン、当てにいっても平気かな？
大野　上がり始めたらさ、一番楽なのは、サイモン・アンダーソンのスーッと出すのがあるでしょ。あんまりすごい角度で上げていくのはよくないみたいね。トライフィンはそのスピードを持続してドロップインしていけるみたいだけど。
大野　この間もちょっと聞いたんだけど、ガールフレンドは？
千葉　ガールフレンド？ いますよ。そうだね。今は今のガールフレンドといる時が一番楽しいね。だから今も早く帰りたいね(笑)。全日本もあやふやだし。
大野　こういう風にはっきりしない大会はいやだね。
千葉　うん。いやだね。９月だったら９月って決めてほしいね。この辺（湘南）に住んでる人はすぐに来られるからいいよね。そういう面では少し関西の事を忘れすぎとちがうかなって思うね。
大野　うん。それはあるよね。関西がよくなっていくためにはどんなふうになればいいと思う？
千葉　そうね。スポンサーがもっとしっかりしてほしいね。そういう面では関東の方が面倒みがいいと思う。今の世界のスポーツは、日本のスポンサーが多いんじゃないかな。テニスやゴルフなんか、日本のスポンサーサイドでまわしているってあると思うね。サーフィンも行く行くはそうなるとは思うけどね。
大野　前に、大会にしばらく出てなかったでしょ？　何か落ち込む原因でもあったの？
千葉　いや、みんな、何ていうのかなあ、けんかごしでも勝ちたいんだなあと思って、それならやめとこかっていう感じでやめたんやけど(笑)。
大野　だんだん、試合も変わってきててさ、ああいう感じで行われていたのがやめようというシステムができてるんだよね。あの時代はみんな、オーストラリアのサーファーに影響を受けすぎてね。
千葉　まあ、試合なんだから仕方ないんだけど、それは自分の考えだったからね。なんかおもしろくないなあって思って。
大野　オーストラリアも行ったんだよね。
千葉　うん。クィーンズランドからシドニーまでずっと、波は良くなかったけど。
大野　で、どうだった？
千葉　サーフィンはやっぱり、みんなホットだったね。ドロップインもすごいね。
大野　どこが好きだった？
千葉　デュランバー。最高！ 波はオーストラリアはいいね。日本向きだね。ハワイよりもチューブに入りやすい。あと、リトルアバロンもすごかったね。テイクオフしてあれだけ前に出た足に力を入れたところはなかったね。早く降りなきゃいけないと思って。
大野　試合なんか、楽な気持ちでやってるね。段々優しくなってきたのかな、性格も。
千葉　そうだね。
大野　健康には気を使ってる？
千葉　うん、気をつかってるね。いつまでも波乗りをやっていたいから。最近は彼女からヨガをならってるし。
大野　じゃあ、何となく今は充実してるんだね。
千葉　うん、今は楽しいね。
大野　これから大会に出ても、若い子供達から追いかけられる立場にいると思うわけ。どうやったら俺を追い抜けるかって若い子供達に一言。
千葉　そうだね。もっともっとサーフィンに関して苦労しなきゃダメだね。いろんな所に行って基本を身につけてうまくなってほしい。あと試合で俺に勝ったからって俺を追い越したわけじゃないよ、決して。サーフィンっていうのは進行形。サーフィンができなくなるまでサーフィンしたやつがサーファーだと思う。それが本物のサーファーだと思う。
大野　じゃあ、一生つづけるわけね。ちょっと年とると長い板に乗る人がいるけど、僕としては、それはそれで楽しみ方はあると思うけど、ギブ・アップしてるような気がするんだよね。もっとがんばってほしいね。公平は今年で30になるの？ 30の仲間入りするんでしょ。そうすると、僕も31。山崎さんもいるわけ、善家さんもそうだし、青田もそう。30代これからも頑張らなきゃあね。
千葉　まだまだ俺も若いと思ってるし。自分自身、年をとっても、もっともっといいサーフィンをしたいと思うし。そのためには自分の健康管理もしていかなきゃいけないし、いい板も必要だし。
大野　最後になったけど“３０３”ってどういう意味なの？
千葉　その板に乗ると意味がわかるとでも言っときますか、ハハハ。
大野　今年のスケジュールは？　ハワイは行くの？
千葉　うん、今年は自分の板を試してみたいと思ってる。これからはシェイプもうまくなりたいと思うし、若いやつらも育てたいし、楽しみだね。

“Surfing is an on going project and the real surfer is who will keep surfing until the one can not paddle.That is the real surfer, for sure.”

Ono: Who is your favorite surfer, including everyone in the world.
Kohei: Hmm… I like Gerry ( Lopez) for sure. We are good friends too. This past winter, I was surfing at Pipeline and hearing someone is calling me “ Kohei! Kohei! “ , so I turned around to find out that was Gerry! He was happy to see me again at his spot. He took me to his house later that day and showed me his quiver.
I also like Peter McCabe.
Ono: Both are Goofy footers?
Kohei: Oh for the Regular footer, I like Dane Kealoha. He is very kind to me too.
Ono: What are you shaping for yourself now?
Kohei: It’s a Twin Fin. I think it will hold up to 5 feet, but only for the front side.
Ono: What do you not like the backside surfing on Twin Fin?
Kohei: I don’t like the looseness on back hand turn, at the top of the wave. I feel it worse when the wave is bigger.
Ono: I am not a big fan to rip at the steeper position on Twin Fin neither.
Kohei: You have been riding the Twin Fin for a while and you are good. I guess I have to charge more without thinking it too much ?
Ono: I think, once the board get higher on the wave, just like Simon Anderson, glide the rip through, rather than hit it, is how you do it. I guess, that is why Simon came up with Tri Fin, so you don’t have to slow down there.
Funny question, I may have asked already off the record but….You now have a steady girl friend??
Kohei: Girlfriend ? Yup, I’ve got one! I am enjoying being with her now. Let’s finish this up so that I can go see her! Haha….This waiting period for the contest is getting pretty ridiculous too….
Ono: Yeah, I can not figure out what the organizer wants to do….I am not in favor of the situation neither….
Kohei: I don’t like it….If they scheduled it for September, they should run it on September, I hope. Locals around here can just wait but I am from Osaka and tough to be here to just wait. I guess they don’t care too much about the surfers live far from here….
Ono: I agree…They should pay bit more attention for the surfers from the West regions. What do you suggest to change the things for the Western region Surfers ?
Kohei: Hmmm… Western Japan based sponsors are needed. I think Easter Area have better sponsors who take care of the surfers well. Nowadays, for international sports, say for Golf and Tennis, there are whole bunch of good Japanese sponsors right ? They are doing well for the sports and athletes. I hope it will happen to Surfing soon, too.Ono: Why you didn’t enter contest for a while ? Any negative reasons to do so??
Kohei: I just didn’t feel like to be a part of the race, especially the things happened during the heat. Like, as if we are street fighting …Bit too much aggression, I guess.
So, I just took a break.
Ono: I believe how run the professional contest is starting to change, though. It is getting bit more fair with systematic rules. I guess the aggression came from how Australian surf contest was done….like pulling the leash…It will be better.
Kohei: I guess, to win, it need to be somewhat agressive ? But I just couldn’t agree with it. It just wasn’t fun for me anymore.
Ono: You have been to Australia as well, right?
Kohei: Yes, from Queens Land, all the way to Sydney. I didn’t score the good wave too much though.
Ono: Did you like the place?
Kohei: They are ripping, pretty hot. Also, there were a lot of drop ins!
Ono: Favorite spot ?
Kohei: Duranbah! That wave is great. Wave is good there, in general. For us, it is easier than Hawaii. You can get barreled easier than Hawaii, for sure.
Oh, Littlle Avalon was good too. I need to step hard on front feet right after take off, to get to the bottom faster to make it. It was great!
Ono: It seems like you are relaxed in the heat these days? You get older and matured??
Kohei: I guess so….
Ono: Are you paying attention to your health?
Kohei: For sure, I do. I would like to keep surfing as long as I can, so I started to learn Yoga from my girlfriend recently.
Ono: Sound like your life is good ?
Kohei: I am enjoying it.
Ono: So, you are being chased by younger generations now. Try to give them an advice?
Kohei: I think, I would say, you need to experience and learn more. Go to more places, learn the basics first. Also, know that even if you beat me in the heat, that doesn’t necessary mean you have passed me. Not at all. Surfing is an on going project and the real surfer is who will keep surfing until the one can not paddle. That is the real surfer, for sure. You can’t surpass that surfer unless you are there.
Ono: So, you can’ t stop surfing for life! I see some surfers swap board to long board when they gets older , which is not a bad thing, but I feel like the one gave up on some aspect of surfing. I wish I can keep ripping on short board when I get older…So keep at it, everyone! You are 30 years old, right? You are in 30’s club now. I just turned 31. There are other members like Yamazaki Ichiro san, Zenke & Aota. We can’t switch to long board yet!
Kohei: I don’t feel old as of yet. I would like to surf better when I am older. I just need to keep myself in shape and shape good boards.
Ono: Last question. What is your label “ 303” means ?
Kohei: I will just say, you will know when you ride it.
So you better ride it first. Haha
Ono: Your upcoming schedule? Hawaii?
Kohei: Yes, this year, with all my shape. I want to be a better shaper. I also want to teach younger surfers too. I am looking forward to it.
©️Surfin’Life Magazine / Issue of Vol.3 No.9 1982
Interview by Kaoru Ohno